Sometimes, when you have no plans, the best of times can fall into place. For this trip to the High Sierra and to Shasta, such was the case.
To keep this short, I’ll keep it to the basics. I met some truly incredible, strong, talented and inspiring people– ALL generous in nature and full of adventure and fun, who move about the mountains in strong form and in good spirit, living the most honest path. From 70yr old Otto who stormed up Bloody Mountain to 24 yr old Brett who shralped the heck out of Shasta to 26 yr old Kevin who quietly sends some of the hardest routes in the valley, every player is in love with the great outdoors.
Together, we all enjoyed nights in meadows and in forests, by lakes and by mountains, circled around fires, throwing down dance moves, and dipping in hot springs, all while pursuing our favorite activities by day. Scout also joined the traveling adventures and was welcomed by all our different hosts.
My first few days were spent skiing with the “Sierra Slayers”. Dubbed so by the talented Chris Davenport, these California fellas crush it on the East side of the Sierra range and far beyond. My friend and past expedition partner Glen Paulson rounded up the troops and we took on Mt Dana (Solstice Couloir to Powerhouse Couloir), Bloody Mtn (Hanger Face to Connector Couloir) and Black Mtn (main side), along with a climbing session in Granite Canyon one afternoon after some stellar corn shredding.
Just by luck, I met up with a friend from Indian Creek and elsewhere, Sam Piper, and joined the Yosemite Search & Rescue (YOSAR) crew up at the Tuolumne campground for a couple of weeks of climbing adventure. With numerous new friends and a different climbing partner every day, we climbed the classic longer routes in Tuolumne meadows, and I even got a chance to lead a climb at the base of El Capitan (Moby Dick 5.10a)- a dream come true. I truly can’t wait to go back.
From there, I joined Logan Talbott (YOSAR member) on a quick jaunt up to Mount Shasta (14,162ft) to attempt a day climb to the summit (7,000ft gain), along with a corn filled ski descent, from the top through the Trinity chutes on the South Face. We had a young and strong crew that were laughing and charging all day long.
Upon return, Sam rallied us to go do my first on sight free solo of Cathedral Peak’s Southeast Buttress (5.7 variation). Joined by super strong Ben Doyle, we had a fun ascent in beautiful weather, and a zen like climbing experience making our way up the 6 pitches to the top with no rope. I’m no Alex Honnold, but it was an ethereal moment of the trip.
Shortly thereafter, new friend and strong woman, Stacey Boore hatched our plan to go climb The Incredible Hulk (11,120ft) as a lady’s team. It was stepping up for me but we got it done in 17 hours, 12 pitches (1,200ft), and 12 miles of hiking (6,800ft) gain/loss of elevation on the approach/descent. It actually surpassed my longest day climbing and skiing the Grand Teton a few years ago. We climbed The Red Dihedral (5.10b) and I was beyond psyched to share a lead with a woman who is extremely encouraging, and supremely talented.
It took me a long time to get to the Sierras, and it won’t be too long before I get back. The tick list is growing by day…a shout out and a huge thanks to all my new friends and all the old friends that added to the incredible fun and adventure of the past few weeks. You are all my inspiration!
XOXOXOXO
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